JAN 27,2003 MONDAY
Arrived Cancun pretty
much on schedule. No trouble with customs. Took about ½ hour to depart plane,
clear customs & get our luggage. Picked up some cash at the airport ATM.
The ATM is located in the departure terminal around the corner from the
arrivals. Plunked down 400 pesos for a quick shuttle ride to Playa instead of
waiting 45 minutes for the bus for $9 US.
Forty-five minutes later as we watched the bus leaving from the airport
non stop for Playa, our shuttle driver informed us for the fifth time that we
would be leaving soon and only making one stop in Puerto Morelos before taking
us on to Playa. Unable to mask our excitement any longer, we quickly boarded
our shuttle where we sat for another fifteen minutes before finally leaving. It
was nearly dusk as we pulled away from the Cancun airport and any remnants of
anxiety towards our shuttle driver from our long wait were quickly erased,
primarily due to the exciting form of driving which he entertained us with from
Cancun to Playa. I must say he did a remarkable job of keeping us guessing the
entire way as to whether there was something mechanically wrong with our van or
whether this was simply his flamboyant driving style. The basis of the trip
revolved around the acceleration or lack thereof of our van. It was either in a
state of full blown total acceleration or complete deceleration. As we lurched
along highway 307, I had visions of the gas pedal being strapped all the way
down to the floor and a little Mexican stowed under the hood refilling the
carburetor with gas from a can every time it ran low. There were two other
couples on the shuttle with us. Neither spoke much English so we just sat back
and endured the ride.
We got to Natz Ti Ha
after dark at around 7:30. Didn’t have too much trouble finding the place even
in the dark although the shuttle driver had never heard of Natz Ti Ha. The
bumpy dirt road and lack of outdoor lighting as we approached was a little
unsettling since what we could see seemed pretty undeveloped and isolated. Juan
the “security” guard who we would get to know much better as the trip went on,
greeted us, more or less, near the gate. Juan spoke no English whatsoever but
did seem to have an inkling that we would be arriving. Flashlight in hand, speaking to
non-understanding ears, he guided us to what he thought was our room. Although
we were pretty sure that the room he had taken us to was not ours, it was
pointless to try to convey this to Juan and since no one else seemed to be
around, we resigned ourselves to stay put and resolve the matter the following
day. We were just glad to have
arrived. After giving Juan a tip for
helping us to the wrong room and for assisting us with our luggage, as he was
leaving we asked for the key to the room by saying “llave por favor”, Spanish
for “key please” and one of the “for sure” phrases in our very limited arsenal
of Spanish vocabulary. After another ten minutes of pointless chatter, it
became apparent that there was no key and we would probably get one “manana”.
Tired, hungry and
anxious to get to town, we were nonetheless reluctant to have just arrived in
an unknown location, after dark and just leave everything in our room while we
headed off to 5th Avenue without a key to lock our room. A few more
minutes of ridiculous non conversation, sign language and traipsing around
after Juan we arrived at someone elses
door a floor below us. After Juan knocks on the door an attractive, dark haired
woman with dark complexion answers the door. Juan asks in Spanish “Do you speak
Spanish” to which she replies in Spanish “yes, a little”. I’m thinking okay, maybe I can get my point
across to this gal, she seems a little brighter than Juan. Before being able to
test my theory, a shirtless man in pool shoes enters the room from behind with
a can of beer in his hand speaking some kind of deeply guttural, garbled
nonsense that occasionally resembled the English language. Initially dismayed, I was instantly
encouraged when the charming woman replied to him in nearly perfect English,
seemingly able to understand everything he was saying. Things were looking up!
And this is how we met Mark and Cheryl.
After explaining our
keyless situation, Cheryl and supposedly Mark assured us we had nothing to
worry about security wise and urged us to go relax and enjoy ourselves in town
which we promptly did. And by the way, they were right. We walked from our room
to the new section of 5th Avenue about 1 mile where it joins up with
the older section of 5th. We ate at Saber on 5th where we
have eaten before. Had fun miscommunicating with our waiter about the two for
one drinks that came with our meal which for some unexplained reason we didn’t
qualify for. Oh well we’re on vacation, who cares! Dinner was great especially
the shrimp tacos. Sue insisted on leaving a $10 tip for our waiter, which was
just about what our entire dinner cost. Down the street to Karen’s to listen to
the Expression Band, one of our favorite pastimes whenever we are in Playa. In
fact, I don’t believe we have ever missed them when we go into town, which is
almost everyday. We are disappointed to find that Enrique had left the band and
headed off to Canada to play. He was the ringleader and we thought, the most
talented member of the band. Although we still enjoyed their music, they were
never quite the same during our entire visit. Several margaritas later we
tumbled back to Natz for some much needed rest.
JAN 28, TUESDAY
Got up early and went to La Cueva del Chango
to meet and talk to Pedro who was to be our rental contact during our
visit. His small breakfast restaurant is
very unique and has become quite popular in Playa. Wood and natural stone are
the main materials used for his open sided palapa restaurant. Used wine bottles
of various colors are molded into the ceiling and allow light to pass through
for a very colorful and unique effect. Water
runs everywhere throughout the restaurant including a waterfall and a pond with
fish. Even the bathroom is equipped with
a small waterfall to wash your hands, instead of a faucet. With tropical birds
flying around in the jungle garden
the natural touch is complete. The open kitchen contains about the
same amount of cooking equipment that most of us back home would take on a one
week camping vacation and yet they are able to turn out some really interesting
meals.
I explained our room situation to Pedro and he was unsure of
where we were supposed to be but promised to look into it right away. Satisfied
that things would come out right, I headed down the dirt road and back to Natz.
Down to the pool around nine to catch some Mexico sunshine
for a couple of hours. Met a few of the Natzi’s and talked briefly with them.
They were pretty busy talking among themselves and didn’t pay us much notice.
Around 9:30 a cheerful woman who I guessed to be
in her mid thirties (okay Shari, you owe me one!) walked out to the pool and
introduced herself as Shari while Peter, her significant other we would meet a
little later in the morning. Shari determined after a few minutes that the day
would be a suitable one for sunning and lounging and disappeared only to return
shortly thereafter to take up her place poolside. Throughout our trip Shari and
Peter provided us with great information, pretty good driving and riding
directions, a library full of books, several very memorable patio parties and
even grocery delivery service. They also provided us with all of the little
things we didn’t bring or have to make life more comfortable. They never made
us feel like we were intruding, which we were, and their door was always open.
Thanks Shari and Peter, you guys are great! Shari and Peter are also two of the
original Natzi’s and spend several months a year in Playa at Natz Ti Ha. Lucky them. Stateside they live in Colorado.
Weather today mostly sunny around 75 – 80 degrees. This
would remain the weather pattern for almost our entire trip with the
temperature gradually rising to end of day highs of around 88 degrees by the
time we left in March. Occasional showers for an hour maybe once a week
followed immediately by more sunshine.
Within an hour of our
pool arrival while we lounged luxuriously on our lawn chairs, we were
approached confidently by a sauntering middle aged gentleman obviously of
Mexican descent with long, flowing, albeit somewhat graying and thinning hair,
dressed in a very business casual style later to be identified as Banana
Republic. His gait, his demeanor, his language and indeed his entire attitude
plus the fact that he wasn’t wearing a swimsuit or carrying a beach towel or
floatie immediately indicated to us that this was someone of great importance.
His walk, his talk and even his appearance reminded me of an overgrown Danny
DeVito with an accent. Peering over our sunglasses, we watched guardedly as he
waved and cajoled with some of the poolside guests, all of whom he was
obviously well acquainted. After
stopping briefly here and there around the pool and apparently satisfied that
he had reestablished his dominance over this piece of turf, he steadily
continued on toward Sue and I at the far end of the pool. We were about to meet
our new companion, our confidant, our tour guide, our friend and one tenacious
salesman. “Hello Hon, I’m Carlos”! Carlos and his partner Leroy are the
developers of Natz Ti Ha.
After introductions, Carlos quickly determined we were in
fact in the wrong room. We had
completely unpacked the night before, anxious to settle in. Since we were moving again, we wanted to get
it over with as quickly as possible. We left everything at the pool and went
back to the room to repack. Carlos sent
a couple of workers up to move our luggage to the new room. The new room was
great and we were its first rental occupants. After unpacking and resettling
for about an hour, I reached in my pocket for my wallet which I quickly realized
was missing with about $1000 US cash in it. I raced back down to the pool to
find my wallet undisturbed, lying right on my pool chair where I must have left
it. Halleluiah!
Lunch was poolside with empanadas para llevar from La Cueva
del Chango. After lunch we decided to go
to the new supermarket “Chedraui” for supplies. Sue who had been hobbled by a
nasty computer accident back in November was still limping badly as we slowly
made our way along the road from Natz and up the small hill past La Cueva when
a rental car pulled over and an elderly American couple offered to give us a
lift after noticing Sue with her arm over my shoulder struggling along the
road. We readily accepted their offer.
In retrospect, we would have been better off walking. After a harrowing 20
minute ride through town out onto the highway first going north then going
south well beyond town, we turned north again and were eventually deposited at
the front door of Chedraui. Grateful for the ride and even more grateful to be
alive we waved and wondered as our new acquaintances sped away to enjoy their
vacation. Hopefully they made it back alive.
Chedraui is a great new Super Mercado filled with almost
anything you could want. We exchanged
$100 US for 1090 pesos which was the best exchange rate we found. A couple of
weeks later the rate was even a little higher at 1100. After scoping out the
store for a while, we purchased about 300 pesos of groceries and walked out to
catch a cab. We asked our driver to take us to Covi the liquor store down the
street. There are hundreds of liquor stores all over town including Chedraui
which we had just left but I had been told that Covi was the cheapest place to
buy. While our driver waited outside, we
went in for some El Jimador tequila. Priced at 153.39 for 1 liter we could have
purchased the same at Chedraui for 130.40. We also grabbed a bag of ice and
returned back to Natz by cab
After cleaning up in our room we walked into town in search
of food and fun. Asking around and
looking for places we had never been, we were told by the owner of Captain
Dave’s, a local expatriate bar on 10th Avenue, that Tango Taco would
be our best bet for tacos. Although the
prices were great, the food to us, was only mediocre. Chips and salsa, a
variety of tacos with sprites for beverage (no alcohol served here) came to 80
pesos, which is less than $8 US.
After dinner, looking
for a margarita we headed back to 5th, we stopped on the street in
front of a large open restaurant whose name I still can’t remember to listen to
a reggae type singer with a bongo backup and some sound effect backup music.
Extremely energetic and entertaining, he waved us inside. With nothing better to do, we accepted his
offer. Sitting directly in front of this great entertainer, his beat stomping
feet literally knocked the silverware off our table. We needed to keep our hands on our drinks to
keep them from falling to the floor. “Dino” was the next friend we made and we
enjoyed music, drinks, stories and town politics with him for the rest of our
vacation. Although we would visit him
occasionally at this restaurant, the margaritas were highly overpriced at 50
pesos and some of the worst we had on the trip. Additionally they put a
mandatory gratuity on the bill. This probably explains why we don’t remember
the name of the place. We much preferred to visit Dino at Bourbon Street with
better atmosphere, great drinks and better prices. Our first full day in Playa
was now complete.
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 29TH
Mostly sunny this morning. At poolside we received
instructions from Peter and Shari for getting to La Bamba Cockteleria for
lunch. On a bicycle graciously provided by Carlos for the duration of our
visit, I headed off to purchase and bring back lunch for my basking bride.
Ended up with 2 crab tostadas for 27 pesos each, just okay; 1 medium shrimp
cocktail, 58 pesos, really good, with limes, salsa, chips and bread for 112
pesos total.
Decided to stay home tonight for dinner with a regular
favorite of ours, rotisseried Sinaloa chicken from Sinaloa chicken on Avenida
10. Sue, still limping, decided to stay at the pool while I ventured out on a
bicycle excursion and to pick up dinner. Headed south to Xaman Ha to make sure
it was still standing. Place looked good
with new paint and well manicured grounds. A great place with a wonderful
setting and view. Back to Sinaloa and Super Mas, a mini mercado where we
eventually ended up shopping frequently for groceries. Less than a mile from
Natz, it’s an easy bike ride and has most everything we needed.
Our Sinaloa chicken was
2 half chickens, Mexican rice, marinated purple onions, salsa and fresh corn
tortillas for 64 pesos. A really great meal!
We’ve tried other chicken places, there are many in Playa, but enjoy Sinaloa
the most. A really unique flavor the others don’t seem to have and an
interesting owner who remembers you each time you return. Super Mas sells
rotisserie chickens as well for only 30 pesos but when we tried it, it was
bland and tasteless and not at all worth the savings. Quiet relaxing day, no
trip to town tonight. Costco, Cancun
tomorrow?
THURSDAY, JANUARY 30TH
Cloudy this morning.
Good day for a Costco run. Tried to work Pedro a little on a car rental
but ended up paying $50 US for 1 day.
Picked up the car at La Cueva around 10:30 and after asnack from
yesterdays leftovers, we headed for Cancun on Highway 307. After an easy hours
trip from Playa, we found the Costco without any problem. Inside, we found many
of the same items we have back home as well as quite a few different items. US
steak was nice to find and we stocked up on things we thought we would
need. Also picked up some spicy crab dip
that Shari and Peter wanted us to bring back. About $200 later and after
picking up a Hebrew National hot dog outside the store, we headed back towards
Playa stopping at a few beachside areas along the way.
Still mostly cloudy this afternoon but pleasant. We stopped
at the Atomic café, 30 pesos per hour to test email, wandered around town for a
while and headed back to Natz.
Tonight we decided to dine at the Blue Lobster where we
celebrated our 20th Anniversary dinner 5 years ago. Although it has moved off of 5th
Avenue, the menu is the same and it’s still busy nearly all the time. The
dinner was poor, the service okay and after a similar experience in 2001, we
decided to give up on what had always been one of our favorite places to eat.
We did not go back for the rest of the trip.
Maybe one more chance when we return again.
After dinner, Sue decided she could make the walk down to Senor
Frogs an old hangout, not to far from Xaman Ha. When we stay at Xaman Ha it’s
necessary to walk past Senor Frogs coming into town and going back home at
night. Although it’s certainly not our favorite place, we gotten fairly
familiar with it and even have gotten to know Andreas, the owner over the
years. We’re never certain if he will remember us from year to year or not but
he always does. Tonight was no
different. Andreas is of German descent but born and raised in Mexico. Andreas
already lives with his family in Playacar but told us he had just purchased a
two bedroom condominium in Real Pakal in Playacar 2 for $110,000. He said to be
sure to take a look at it before we left.
We did.
We hung around for a drink or two, remembering some of the
good times and crazy things we have seen at Senor Frogs but before ourselves
becoming one of the crazy things someone
else has seen, we decided enough was enough for one night and headed
back to Natz by cab, about two miles and twenty pesos.
FRIDAY, JANUARY 31ST
Today turns out to be just about the only completely cloudy
day of the trip. Sue has an upset stomach, I’m feeling okay. We’ve been invited
to a patio party at Shari and Peter’s this evening but we’ll have to see how
Sue is feeling. Neither of us feels that great. We suspect the tequila from
last night is the actual culprit. Publicly of course, we are blaming it on the
food.
I stopped by Cueva in the morning and talked with Carlos who
was having breakfast there as he usually does. We talked about Playa, Natz and
the entire area for a while. Carlos also
coughed up another bike for Sue. Although she couldn’t walk well, I thought the
bicycle might be just fine. Back at the room, we had crackers and cheese for
lunch and decided to venture out on the bikes. Sue was instantly thrilled, when
with little or no pain in her foot and the ability to cover lots of ground in
seconds she sped off ahead of me up the dirt road past Cueva and onto the very
northern tip of Avenida Quinta. From here all the way to the ferry dock, 5th
Avenue runs in a straight line, paralleling the Caribbean Sea for about one and one half miles. Filled day and night with pedestrians from around the
world, 5th Avenue is truly a unique place and the site most tourists
think about first want to see when they arrive in Playa.
We rode along 5th for about ten blocks to a
payphone where we made our first call to the pub to check up on things
there.